Firstly as Moo has asked for an itinerrrararrary again, as follows my plans for the next few weeks:
Zanzibar til sometime mid next week
Then Mafia Islands (to see basking sharks among other things) for a few days
Then tour, starting I think on the 18th of Jan? For 2 1/2 weeks
Long w-e in Livingstone at the Falls walking with lion cubs
Back across to Dar es Salaam by train
Last long w-e in Zanz before HOME
Today was giant tortoise day - hopped on a boat to Prison Island (ours was called Gladiator, favourites thus far Hakuna Matata - PEOPLE ACTUALLY SAY THIS ALL THE TIME JUST LIKE IN THE LION KING - and Mr Bean). Over 100 giant tortoises there 'living happily together' - a present from the Seychelles apparently - one of them is 185 and as they arrived in the first half of the 20th century must have been pretty darn big when even first in Zanz. Also lots of cute baby ones. Fed them lots of spinach which was great fun. Even stroked them - tho' my first attempt backfired as I made Mr Tortoise jump with fright and pull his head back which made me simultaneously jump. Quick look around the prison (never actually made it as a prison and was used as a quarantine centre but if it had would have surely been the prettiest on record) and then headed to do some snorkelling. The visibility wasn't great tho' and my flippers were too big for my midget feet so kept falling off. Did see lots of prettttty fish tho, inc a small yellow and black striped one that kept swimming near my head which was fun.
Then wandered the beach and took various posed photos gazing meaningfully at the horizon etc before heading back to the mainland, managing to miss the rain in the process that had hung over Stone Town in the morning.
Afternoon entailed some very successful navigating by me and Madley (we now have two maps to cross check with) in a fruitless epic search for a sarong with a swirly pattern of fish on it. We could only find one for 12 dollars which seemed heinously expensive to us. Alas, despite length of search, no such luck. We'll either have to settle for some lesser inferior number, or hopefully find it in the north instead. Bah humbug.
Settled ourselves by the water for a coke in the evening sun, watching the usual display of local boys hurling themselves into the water in endless repetition. We were joined by 3 small boys (vastly preferable to the usual harassment) including one very cute one who sat shyly leaning his arm on my chair for about half an hour. Tried to ask his name but he answered so quietly I couldn't make out what he was saying. Sweeeeet.
Very excited indeed about the dolphins tomo....
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